Category Archives: Japan

Travel-lover

Instead of people, I fall in love with countries and cities. Japan, Istanbul, Cyprus, now it’s also Budapest – and who knows how many more wait for me in future. While new ones add to the list, my love to previous ones never fades. The unique charm of each place is alive in my heart.

It’s both different and similar with normal human romance.  The same anticipation before meeting – I am thrilled when I board a plane! It’s also a sensual pleasure, when a country surrounds me with its air, when I walk along its streets, taking in its sights, its smells, I can even taste a country…

And then there are memories, little things. I like to buy in my travels somehing I can wear – clothes, shoes, accessories. A skirt from Yokohama. Summer shoes from Hiratsuka (they don’t already exist, such a pity). A warm, soft baggy tunic that I found on Cyprus. A copper ring  from Istanbul, from those numerous stalls with handmade accessories. Rings and earrings are my favourite. As if I am engaged to each country with a ring…

And then it’s parting and separation. It can be also painful, it can hurt even to see photographs of the places where I’ve been. Especially with Japan, because I can’t return there so easily. How long I haven’t been there?…  Random things remind me about it, like some special color of the sky, or a smell on a car parking. I see dreams about Japan and other countries, even unknown countries, and I feel happy in these dreams. Is it bad? Is it addiction? I don’t think so. I prefer to call it love.

How do languages taste?

Long ago one of my friends who was learning two foreign languages at the same time, judged them by… taste. Or maybe some feeling in the mouth. She liked French more because, as she said, “it tastes fresh and cool, like mint candy”. English, on the other hand, tasted like porridge (sorry, English speakers!)

I couldn’t say anything on that matter because I studied only one language at the time. But later I understood – yes, there is something to it. For instance, Italian is sweet – even too sweet, while Spanish is hot and spicy.

Strange, but I can’t characterize Japanese in this way. But I love speaking Japanese, and it’s easy for me. Maybe there are many similar sounds in it for us Russians. I don’t feel any strain while speaking, and it sounds nice too. But English is a torture!

How could it be? I work with English texts every day, but only as a written translator. I rarely have a chance to speak, and when it happens, my accent is terrible (my child is always laughing at me). And I feel terrible, as if all muscles in my mouth move into some unnatural position. And I must make a lot of effort to keep this position. As a result, it sounds strange all the same. Yes, while Japanese, Spanish or, say, Turkish pronunciation is easier for a Russian speaker, English is a challenge. There seem to be more different sounds than similar ones. And I’m even scared to think about French or Chinese…

Well, I guess one can learn anything if there is a need. It only takes time and practice. I don’t know what language I may learn next in my life. As for now, Japanese is my favourite. It’s so graceful. It reminds me not a taste but something visually beautiful, like fine art. I’m missing it!

…Come and go, you come and go

After leaving forever and deleting himself from my Skype contacts, my Japanese boyfriend was absent for about two months. I learned to live without him which was quite successful. No pain, only a little sadness. I even began to regain my former, younger self that I had before we met 5 years ago. My brother returned from jail. I was just going to think what to do next… And then he appeared again.

Why doing it every time? Why can’t he really say goodbye forever? Leaving and then coming back like it’s nothing… Asking to forgive him and all that… No wonder that my heart got hardened after all these times. Which is lucky for me – how could I bear it otherwise? How would I feel if still loved as before? Now I am calm. I can be friendly. I can talk about everyday things, and listen, and sympathise, but don’t believe words of love anymore. And don’t believe his promises as well.

Promises… Being excited about our reconciliation, he did incredible thing: he invited us (me and my daughter) to come to Japan and stay in his house as guests. He was going to help us get the longest possible, 3-months guest visa. He said, like “Please come and live, and if you enjoy it here, then… this is your home”. No matter what, I wanted to go. I let myself to dream. A beautiful Japanese autumn… I talked with my daughter, and she liked the plan. We began some preparations. And of course it was not going to happen.

He didn’t take into account his children. They entered a difficult teenage period. It did not happen now, all of a sudden – he’s been complaining of the problems for about half a year already. He just didn’t think about it first, and then understood that the whole thing was impossible. Two days of silence – he seemed to be afraid to tell me, but I guessed. I knew it. It was so predictable. Today he answered, just as I expected: “You can’t come now. I wish their difficult age finished soon…”

Again, I am not upset. My heart got a good training. I am calm, and I feel freedom. I can rely on myself only, and I am free to make my own plans. Maybe I still have a chance to see beautiful Japanese autumn…

Photographs: World of Beauty

My condition is still passive. When I am overloaded with work, big and urgent, I can’t do anything else. I forget to eat, sleep very little and don’t go outdoors. I need concentration and get angry at the kids when they are noisy or just ask me about something. By the end of it I am longing for the moment when the task is over. I say to myself, “Oh, when I have some free time I’ll do this and that…” But it comes, and I do nothing.

Really nothing. Oh well, I eat and sleep, and may lay in bed with a book or watch TV (unfortunately, there is mostly nothing to watch on Russian TV these days). If my free time is in the morning, I go to a swimming pool – mornings on weekdays is my favourite time because it’s not very crowded. As for housekeeping, I do only things that take minimum efforts. So wast majority of my free time I’m immersed into the Internet.

And even this time in the Internet is mindless, I know that. I only read news in my social networks, one by one. Facebook, then its Russian analogue (Vkontakte), then Live Journal. No writing, just reading. I don’t even write e-mails to my friends because I have nothing to say. Later, when I have better news… I don’t watch movies, don’t check job-searching sites, don’t train my Japanese – nothing that requires to strain my brain again. I would like to write a lot in my blogs, but it is also difficult. As if my thoughts get scattered when I want to write something, and I can’t collect them. News and photographs, that’s what I see.

Photographs are a feast for my eyes and mind. I began following several photographers on Facebook. I don’t know them personally, I think I saw their works reposted by my Japanese friends. Landscapes, flowers and animals are my favourites. All following the season: Mountain Fuji. Cold sea. Clear cold skies. White snow… Russians like to speak about “Russian winter”, but there is the same snow in Japan. Even better, because it’s impossible to see really white snow here in the city. And now when spring is coming there are flowers. Blooming plum trees, amazingly bright. And next will be Sakura season… I want to be there, inside this world of beauty, flowers and sea. Now I can reach it only through these photographs. Thank you, photographers! You help me survive this dull time.

Japan: Story of my love. Part 4 – Beach, cakes and other things

One of the days I had no appointments with my friends and decided to go to a beach. I was staying in Hiratsuka city, Kanagawa Prefecture, and knew that there was a good beach in Chigasaki which is the next station by railway. So I took a train to Chigasaki. 

I really have a passion to explore various places by my own, but there was just a little problem. I knew how to ask a question like “Sorry, where is something?” in Japanese, but absolutely couldn’t understand the answer. When I approached a young girl in the street to ask where was the sea, I had a hope she would just point the direction. But she started explaining it in many words among which I could only understand “station”. So I returned to the station and started my search once more. After I asked a group of guys about the beach, they quite reasonably didn’t even try to explain the way but advised me to take a taxi instead. There really was a taxi stand nearby. While thinking what to do next, I discovered there a map of surroundings, very good and detailed. So lucky! The sea could be seen Southwards. Now I knew the right direction and began walking.

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The part of Chigasaki lying between the station and the sea was all small streets and houses with tiny gardens. I could see people watering their gardens on that hot summer day. The walk took about half an hour. Houses ended and I saw a highway. By direction signs and some surfers making their way to the sea by cars and bicycles, it was clear: the beach is somewhere there!

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Oh yes, it was there. A wast sandy beach and the great Pacific ocean. By the time I already had a short glance of it in Kamakura when we went down to the seaside together with Chie, already in twilight. I was impressed by strong waves and their roaring sound. Here it was the same: tall roaring waves. That beach was absolutely different from those I had known in Russia, for example at the Black sea. Sea is not an ocean, you know. Waves rarely become tall, and a lot of people are swimming. Even more people are lying under the sun, covering the whole place all over like seals. We have quite a little part of sea coast for such a big country, so every summer it is really packed with vacationists.Image

Japanese beach was totally different. Not crowded at all, which really surprised me. People were coming with families and putting tents to protect themselves from the sun. Children played in shallow water, and fathers were teaching them to surf. Are Japanese all surfers? Anyway, it must be a really hard job to swim in such waves. But I wanted to feel them, I wanted to enter this wonderful ocean.

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Here one more problem came up. There were no changing cabins or any other facilities in sight, nothing at all! The beach seemed absolutely wild. (Later I discovered another beach equipped with all necessary things just next to that place). Where could I change into the swimwear? Why am I so stupid? I should have done it beforehand! Oh no… Looking around desperately, I found a sort of a low fence enclosing some empty space. It was deserted, far from the water and could shield me from strangers’ eyes quite well. So I went and climbed over that bamboo fence and quickly changed there. Still don’t know its purpose, but that time it really saved me!

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Now I could enter the water! I put my clothes and handbag on the sand, not far from someone’s tent. In Russia such carelessness about personal belongings is simply impossible. When a family or a group of people goes to swim, one of them always stays to watch the things. But here I could leave it without fear. The ocean at last! Yes, I couldn’t swim there but I could play with the waves letting them roll over me and sway me and knock me down. Fantastic feeling! The water was very warm and very salty. The sand had unusual dark colour, looking almost black when wet. I enjoyed the ocean as long as I could and left the beach reluctantly, trying to hold in memory the powerful sound of waves. 

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What else I wanted to tell about? There were so many fascinating things I discovered during that trip. Cakes in a cake shop at my station – I wanted to taste them all! Sometimes I bought one when returned from sightseeing in the evening and took it to my hotel room. Other kinds of shops – oh yes, I love shopping in Japan! I bought some clothes and shoes, and presents for my daughter and others. I even had to buy an extra bag to pack all the presents. Among them there were pretty soft toys from a theme shop with goods from Hayao Miyazaki animation. Everybody will be so glad! 

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The trip was going to an end. I didn’t want to leave but was eager to share my impressions with family and friends and give them presents. Bye, Japan!  I did return there again several times, but that first encounter was really unforgettable. I still keep some souvenirs from that time. Don’t know when will be the next, but I will sure see you again. It’s a promise!

 

Japan: Story of My Love – Part 3. My Friends

It’s summer now, and this hot summer weather revives my memories even brighter. So, I was there! One afternoon to explore the town, and on the next day I was to meet my first Japanese friend in real life. It was a woman of about the same age as myself, named Rie. She was also kind of my colleague, a translator, so her English was perfect.

Of course I worried before this meeting. First of all, how I will greet her? Russian girls hug and kiss easily, showing their friendship, but what about Japanese? I knew nothing about proper manners. Furthermore, I didn’t know how to eat with chopsticks! Oh well, I had a chance to train this skill a little during the breakfast in the hotel. I was just watching the other people and tried to copy their ways – yes, difficult, but I managed it somehow. Then I got on a train and went to the station where we had arranged to meet.

Rie was waiting for me there on the platform. Her attitude was very simple and friendly. She came up to me and hugged slightly with one arm, and I was relieved. From the first moment we were communicating absolutely freely, talking about everything without slightest embarrassment. We spent two consecutive days exploring Tokyo. She showed me around usual touristic destinations like Imperial Palace Garden, a big shrine (shame, but at that time I couldn’t remember the names of places) and Tokyo Tower, as well as the places which were special only for her. She was wearing comfortable clothes and was a restless walker, which I liked too.

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In the evening of our first day she said: “Now we are going to a restaurant. My boss is coming too. He heard that you are from Russia and became interested.” Oh no! I was not ready to meet a boss! I felt panic again. Official manners and so on…  no, no! But this came out not scary as well. The boss of the small translation company was on very friendly terms with his employee, they were exchanging jokes all the way. Of course he also spoke good English. He paid for the dinner – I suppose it was an expensive one (including delicious eel!) He greeted me by shaking hands and really asked a lot of questions about Russia. Little by little I became more confident from hearty encouragement by two of them. I showed photographs of Russia which I specially brought there. I tried to pronounce the few Japanese words I knew by the moment – and was praised and encouraged again. Then they both showed me how to make paper cranes (“Origami”). It was really a nice evening, without any strain.

The next person I met was a guy named Keiichi. He also arranged to meet on Tokyo Station, and there I was lost. Those who know Tokyo Station can imagine that. It’s a huge place with so many entrances, passages and so on.  I was running back and forth in confusion, together with crowds of people. Keiichi called and sent me messages on the mobile, but it little helped. At last I found the place where to wait. As he told me in the message, “I am wearing white shirt, black trousers, glasses and carrying a black case.” But it was the time when working day ended. Crowds of office workers poured out of the station, all wearing white shirts, black trousers and carrying black cases! Luckily, I stood out too distinctly as a foreigner, so he was the first to notice me. I had seen a picture of Keiichi before, but it was not very good, he was much better in reality. A charming guy, but too busy. We had only short time to meet. He took me for a drive around evening Tokyo and to Haneda Airport, to look at the airplanes. We talked about our families and countries and parted as very good friends.

Whom else did I meet? My best and dearest friend Chie, who worked as a tourist guide in Kamakura. She knew the place perfectly and introduced it to me. In course of the sight-seeing we entered little shops and cafes now and then, for rest and shopping. We also went to eat Okonomiyaki, in a fry-it-yourself restaurant where frying pan is built into a table. It was fun – and delicious too! In the evening we went to Karaoke, which turned out shame for me again. Actually I got prepared for it, having learned some songs. But… I had the lyrics in Romaji, and was caught by surprise when saw the text on the screen in real Japanese – Hiragana and Kanji! (I wonder what else should I have expected?) Of course I immediately forgot everything I had learned. But Chie helped me kindly, and it was all right in the end. After singing I danced for her. I am not very good, but wanted to show it anyway. It was a great memory for us. Image

And the last was my Indian friend, a guy named Prasad. He lived in Yokohama that time, working as an engineer in some high-tech area. (Now he returned to India.) In the very beginning, when we just became pen-friends, he stated out the condition: “NO ROMANCE! I am looking for friends only.” I readily agreed with this, because I actually wanted the same. He was really a good friend, and then, he could share the experience of a foreigner in Japan. Right from my arrival he was giving me a lot of advice by e-mail: “It’s so hot. Do drink much water!”, “Please take a fan when you go out!” and the like. We met on the last day on my stay there, and he introduced me Yokohama. It’s still one of my beloved places in Japan – Sakuragicho, Minatomirai, Yamashita Park… We walked and talked a lot. He laughed at my English pronunciation, but felt respect for my efforts in studying Japanese (Prasad himself could speak Japanese a little, but couldn’t read or write). We sat relaxedly on the stone steps near the calm water of Yokohama Bay. We ate Indian Curry. We exchanged presents (I don’t remember what I gave him). And then the day ended, and that was the end of my trip. Image

My dear friends, I am so grateful to you all. I still keep correspondence with some of you, but some people have already disappeared from my view. I know it happens, being quite a normal thing with pen-friends when relationships come to the end for some reason. I remember you all, and these memories are only good and tender. Sometimes I wonder: where you are? How is your life going on? Please, please, be all in good health, safe and happy!   

Japan: Story of my love Part 2 – First Impressions

It was quite a long way. First I had to get from my city to Moscow which took 24 hours by train. By airplane it would be only 2 hours – oh yes, Russian trains are slow! – but I took a train to save money. In Moscow I received my passport with Japanese visa in the travel agency, and then there was still long time before my flight. I was very nervous and worried like a fool about numerous fictional obstacles that could arise unexpectedly. What if I don’t pass control in the airport or my visa is wrong somehow? In addition, my face looked awful because of allergic rash. What if they don’t let me on board, mistaking it for some dangerous infection? Maybe I’d better wear a mask? I am really stupid and over-panicky when it comes to such things. Luckily, now I usually travel together with my daughter who takes things much calmer and tries to comfort me as well.

At last it was over, and I was in the airplane. A huge Airbus, first time in my life! The flight from Moscow to Tokyo takes almost 10 hours, actually the whole night. I was scared only a little in the beginning, but then… just looking for ways to spend time and trying to sleep. Flying to the East, we saw sunrise very early and headed further towards the sun. And then after crossing the sea it was there below: all neatly divided into squares, with tiny ships along the coastline.

Japan! I am in Japan! Nobody came to meet me in the airport, but I remembered the instructions of my friend: “First you should take Narita Express to Tokyo and there change to Tokaido Line, orange colour, to get to your hotel.” Very good and clear explanation. Only there was no railway. Really! I went out of Narita building, looked around but there was nothing except highway. Where is the train? I returned inside and asked a man wearing uniform: “Where is the train?” That time I knew only very few words and phrases in Japanese – enough to ask a question but not enough to understand the asnwer. Luckily, in Narita everybody can speak English, so he readily taught me what to do: “Go down there please”. The railway station was underground! I still had to get used to it. In Japan many things are underground, like shopping centers, stations, parkings and so on.

The first challenge was over, and I felt more confident. I got to my station without any difficulties, easily found the way to the hotel by map, and at the front desk they handed me my rented mobile phone which had been already delivered. I took a shower, changed clothes and went out to explore the town.

It was really hot. Of course everybody warned me about it beforehand, but now I felt it in full measure. Japanese summer heat is just different from that of our climate zone. The sun is burning fiercely, and you need to drink very often. Luckily, drinks are available everywhere from those helpful vending machines. Most unusual for me were very early sunset (7 p.m. in August) and the fact that it didn’t get cooler even at night. Here in Russia twilight can last almost until midnight in summer, and evenings are usually cool. Well, now I like both ways! I had a great pleasure walking along evening streets, feeling hot air and looking around curiously. So many little restaurants and shops with food – food was everywhere! Parking lots for bicycles! Everything was new and strange, but I never felt lost, scared or lonely, even alone in the crowd. It was rather safe, relaxed and excited. Feeling of Japan…  so special for me. From the very first day and every time afterwards, I feel happy when I am there. Just happy. Every moment.

To be continued…

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Japan: Story of my love Part 1 – Beginning

I don’t know how it happened that I fell in love with Japan. There was no particular interest before. I never was a traveller, though used to like Scandinavian countries, or some abstract tropical islands… I really don’t know why – it just happened.

It started in spring of 2008. I was living with my father and my child. After my mother died in 2006, I returned to father’s place so that he wouldn’t feel so lonely. I was divorced, so a bit lonely as well. It was a quiet life, both of us working and doing household. My child was 10, going to school normally that time. Sometimes we received guests… Nothing special was happening.

And then I saw the Anime. It was aired on Russian MTV on weekends in the morning, we wathed it tohether with my daughter. Shojo Kakumei Utena. Not that I never saw an Anime before, though it’s rare on Russian TV. But that time it struck me somehow. Unreal long-legged people with unreal hair color and strange names. The story was strange too, and moreover we coulnd’t follow it up to the end because the channel stopped showing it suddenly. But it already penetrated in our veins. We ordered a DVD with Utena by Internet. We started to watch more Anime and learn Japanese words just for fun. My daughter started drawing in Anime style. And through that colorful unearthly animation we could see a little bit of Japan itself. It was getting more and more serious. I wanted to know more.

When autumn came I screwed up my courage and put an ad on a website where one can find pen-friends from Japan. Surprisnigly, I received a lot of mails. I was not looking for anyone special, I answered to everybody. It was exciting! We exchanged stories and photographs, telling each other about our realities – Russian and Japanese. Of course with some of my pen-friends I could find better understanding, they were very dear to me. One of those who wrote me was a teacher of Japanese language, giving his lessons by correspondence. That’s how I started to learn – only by Romaji (English alphabet) that time. His explanation of grammar was very good. I am really grateful for these lessons.

It was not until summer of 2009 when I at last could go and see Japan with my own eyes. By that time I lost my father too. He never seemed ill but just burned out suddenly, in month and a half. Cancer, the same as my mom. I left with my child and two cats. But life was going on, and I was going to Japan.

My dear friends, how thoughtful they were! When they heard about my coming, they gave load of advice. They taught me how to use Japanese railway and get from the airport to the hotel. Moreover, they took days off in advance, to meet me and guide around. So all my time was already scheduled. I booked a hotel in Kanagawa prefecture, choosing a spot more or less close to all my friends living places. I received a visa through a travel agency and rented a Japanese cell phone by Internet. Everything was ready. I was going alone to a beautiful but totally unknown country.

To be continued…

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Nihonbare / Clear sky of Japan 「日本晴れ」

When I think about Japan, the first thing I remember is its beautiful clear sky. There is even a special word for it in Japanese: Nihonbare. It has such a deep blue colour, which is bright even in winter. And then there are clouds, moving very fast. Thin and transparent, just like steam. When an airplane approaches Japan, you can see these clouds from above, running fast over the ocean. It makes me feel happy each time. It’s like expectation of more happiness in near future… 

Sometimes the sky in my city reminds me of Japanese sky, especially in winter. Of course it’s not so bright (here in Russia the sky gets somewhat pale in winter). But it’s also very clear on sunny days. Looking at it, I feel closer to Japan and beleive that I’ll sure see it again…

 

日本を思い出すとき、初めのはそのきれいで 晴れた空を想像します。日本語でもそれに特別の言葉で、「日本晴れ」という言葉です。 濃い青くて、冬でもとても明るいです。それで、雲は高速で通って行きます。湯気みたい薄くて透明です。飛行機で日本列島に近づくとき、上からその雲が速く海を渡って走っているが見えます。 その風景をみたら、毎回うれしいです. もうすぐもっと幸せが待っている感じです。。。

住んでいる町の空も時々日本晴れに似ています。とくに冬の空です。冬にロシアの空はなんとか淡くなって、実はそんなに濃い色ではありません。でも晴れた子に日に同じ清くて明るいです。 それを見つめて、日本が近いのように感じです。ぜひまた見ると信じています。。。

 

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